雞屎藤與古風

今天讀到周作人的<故鄉的野菜>,才知道浙江一帶在清明節時愛用野菜做糕點,周作人記得是黃花麥果。日本人的御形草餅,亦似乎是類似的東西。這讓我想起廣東人的雞屎藤,這會不會也是清明節的習俗呢?

我記得有一年清明節到大澳,孝子賢孫把狹窄街道擠得水洩不通。巴士站附近一老婦也在蒸糕點,其中一款就是雞屎藤,還有茶果等等。不過,她好像只要是假期便會蒸糕點售賣,所以我也不肯定雞屎藤是否古風餘韻。

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